Ast's Nuview Color Image Card For Mac
RAR (Random Apple Rumor, see 2007 post) of the day Apple will announce its 3-D imitative. “3-D is big in the movie industry right now, but it hasn’t made it successfully to the home. Other companies have been trying 3-D for years, but we think we can do it better.” 1. The Apple TV that is an actual TV will be a 3-D TV. Since 3-D TVs already carry a premium price, having one that also does Apple TV stuff won’t seem to have too much of an “Apple tax” associated with it.
Killer industrial design AND “Apple Eye” glasses that will be better and cheaper than existing ones will be the feature that makes them better. The iTunes 3-D Movie Store will provide content.
- AST Research. An 8, 16., and 24-bit color and b/w image-capture card for the Apple Macintosh I that. NuView digitizes and manipulates real-world,.
- In this article, I will provide the download link and file for macOS High Sierra 10.13 because most users search for the VMware image so they could get it instantly. So, let’s get started. Download Now Mac OS High Sierra VMware Image. The macOS Sierra upgraded from macOS El Capitan.
FIFA 15 coins. If he shows up, we stick with him. Now, we have 24 hr Macs and Soffice environment. Our Founding Fathers ast detail right, including what you plan on wearing.?
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The new iPhone 3D and iPod Touch 3D will allow consumers an easy way to record their own 3-D movies. IMovie 3-D will allow easy 3-D processing, including adding 3-D titles (user selectable depth).
Output to red/blue anaglyph (or direct uploading to YouTube, since they support 3-D) will be part of it. 2012 will be the year of 3-D. Based on nothing. (Well, except a supposed “next iPhone” case photo that shows a hole in each corner, spaced like they are spaced on the 3-D Aiptek/Viewsonic cameras Sure, they said it was for a flash, but) This entry was posted in, on. Updates:.
2017-01-10: Reformatted for WordPress. Here are some things I have learned so far: See also: My camera shipped with FW Ver 1504, Jul 23 2010.
There is a firmware update (build 160) available on the European site for AIPTEK, but not on the US site. It fixes a frame rate issue that reviews seem to complain about. Why this update is not available in the US (the archive comes with English and it appears to work fine) is unknown.
My unit had a color issue, where the right side image (right eye/camera) had a reddish tint to it. I wrote tech support and they responded within 24 hours, and we had a few e-mails back and forth during the day. They provided me with another firmware update (180, Ver 1803 Oct 11 2010) but it did not resolve the problem.
They suggested I return the unit to Amazon, so I did. I requested an exchange on Friday, and Amazon shipped out the replacement “next day” (via Amazon Prime of my original order I suppose) and I picked up the replacement and shipped back my original the following Monday. (Wow, Amazon!). To install updates, you copy two files to an SD card (the instructions say to use 4GB or smaller, but it worked fine on my 16GB card — to be safe, follow their instructions). One file is an.elf (probably the standard debugger file format) and the other is AipFwUpgrade.txt, an empty file that is probably a trigger file the camera will look for.
The card is inserted back in to the camera, and when you power it up and the update will proceed. Once complete, you have to remove these files from the SD card via a computer else the update will happen every time you power up. I found that you can mount the camera and copy the files over to it, directly, then let it update, but you still need to put the SD card in a card reader on a computer to remove them. There is also an update to the Windows PC software that comes on the virtual “CDImage” you see when you plug in the camera to a computer. This update can be. Just like the firmware update, you copy two files over to an SD card (a.iso CD image file, and AipUpdateISO.txt trigger file) and put it back in the camera then turn it on.
When done, you have to delete these files (just like with the firmware updates). This is a very decent system for doing updates. The files uploaded to YouTube (videos) are split screen squished — meaning for a 1920×720 image, you are seeing two 640×720 images squished together. YouTube can handle 3-D video if you add special keyword tags — in this case, the tags added by the AIPTEK ArcSoft software are “yt3d:enable=true”, “yt3d:swap=true” and “yt3d:aspect=16:9”. These are added by the ArcSoft software on upload, which means the software is not really doing anything special. I confirmed this by trying to upload the same.MP4 file directly to YouTube via the website, and received a “duplicate file” warning.
YouTube will display the split screen file as various forms of red/blue anaglyph, interlace or checkerboard formats. This is nice, meaning you can let them do all the translations for your friends to watch however they want (even side by side or cross eye formats for viewing without glasses). BUT, viewing these files outside of a web browser (iPhone, iPad, etc.) will display only the split screen squished video as, apparently, the 3-D stuff is not handled by mobile devices (yet?).
There is no Mac software, but it is quite easy to convert the video inside of Final Cut Express by layering the video on two tracks, applying the Levels filter to the top track and setting Red output tolerance to 0, then applying two instances of Level filter to the bottom copy, and setting one to Blue tolerance 0 and the other to Green tolerance 0, then setting top track to a mix so it shows through. This requires rendering and is slow, but produces good red/blue anaglyph results. Details on how to do this I found on years ago. Their suggestion of using “Screen” composite mode did not produce good results for me, but using Overlay worked fine. Conversion of photos on a Mac is my next project. There are quite a few programs out now for dealing with the Fuji W3 3-D camera, but I have not checked any of them yet to see if they also handle the side-by-side split screen format. There is no adjustment (seemingly) for parallax on the Aiptek.
Back when I was using the NuView 3-D camcorder lens adapter (see also: Stereocam), there was a knob you turned to adjust the distance of the image. You would basically line up the two ghost images of whatever you wanted to be on the surface of the TV — anything in front of that would jump out of the TV, and anything behind it would recess in to the TV.
This meant you could record something five feed away and adjust it so 4 feet popped out, and 6 feet went in. Or if you recorded something 20 feet away, you could set that as the neutral “flat” part.
The Aiptek has no such adjustment (the W3 apparently does). The default distance appears to be around 10 feet, so trying to record anything too close (like something within a few feet) causes very bad ghosting — so this is best used for wide shots, and not close ups. I will post more updates when I have time. I have to charge up the replacement camera and see if it handles color any better. This entry was posted in on. Two days ago, a random Google search led me to discover a cheap ($199 list price!) 3-D camcorder now for sale. This model was not a camcorder like I think of the term, but more like one of those Flip video memory card cameras.
It shoots video and takes digital pictures in 2D and 3D. The camera has 25MB of internal memory for taking a few shots, but an SDHC card is required to do anything more substantial than test it. I placed an order via Amazon Prime and had the camera the next day — thanks, Amazon!
If you wish to buy one, the The camera comes with an HDMI cable (there is a mini HDMI port on the camera), NP70 battery, a USB extension cable, a set of nice plastic red/blue 3-D anaglyph glasses, a wrist strap and carrying pouch. When the camera is plugged in to a computer, it mounts as a “CDImage” virtual CD with Windows software, and a flash drive with the standard DCIM folder structure on it. The software is used to download video and photos from the device, and then upload them to Facebook or YouTube. YouTube has support for 3-D video files, and will display them dynamically as either side-by-side format or several types of red/blue anaglyph (color, greyscale, optimized). The raw 3-D JPG files that come out of the camera are 2592×1944 and they are two images squished side-by-side. Videos are in MP4 format and 1280×720, left and right images side-by-side.
The conversion software will split the two images out and process them as a red/blue anaglyph image (for viewing with the old style paper glasses). There is no Macintosh software, and thus this post. Without the software, you are stuck with a cheesy 2-D camera of questionable resolution. It should be very easy in Final Cut Express to convert the MP4 video files, but I am not sure what software exists for handling the still photos. I will add a new post when I get it figured out. I just wanted this here so Google could find it and maybe someone out there could help on this project. This entry was posted in on.
We created two images: A NetBoot image to start an entire operating system over a network and a NetRestore image to restore a block-for-block image of an existing Mac. You should also have added these two images to your server’s NetBootSP0 folder. To verify that these files are here, from the Finder on your server:.
Click the Go menu. Click Go to Folder. Confirm that the two NetInstall images you created last week are in this folder. If these folders are not here, copy or move them from where you originally saved them to the NetBootSP0 folder. Verify that that NetInstall service is on and working Next, let’s double-check and make sure that the NetInstall service is running and available on your network.
Ast Nuview Color Image Card For Mac Pro
Open System Preferences on your client Mac. Click the Startup Disk preference. Click the lock in the lower left-hand corner of the Startup Disk preference. Authenticate as an administrator. Verify that you can see all your NetInstall Images. If you don’t see your images, open the Server app and make sure the NetInstall Service is turned on. Start your client Mac from the NetBoot image Note: Before we begin this section, it’s very important to understand the difference between a NetBoot and a NetRestore image.
A NetBoot Image will make no changes to your local hard drive. Your operating system will be delivered to your Mac from your server and will be run over your network. A NetRestore Image will wipe the contents of your hard drive and replace it with the contents of the NetRestore Image. If your client Mac is not a Mac that you have a backup of or which you can’t afford to lose the contents of, be very careful which image you select in the next exercise. A selection mistake will result in a compete loss of data.
To start your Mac using your NetBoot image:. Restart your Mac while holding down the Option key. Holding down the Option key reveals all the drives, including NetInstall images, available for your Mac to startup from.
Use the arrow keys to select your NetBoot image. Press the return key. You should now see an Apple logo with a spinning globe beneath it. This is your Mac letting you know that it is starting up from a NetInstall server.
Because we created this image from a basic installation of the OS with a couple of apps added to your Applications folder, when your Mac completes the startup process you sill see the welcome screen you usually see when starting a new Mac for the very first time. At the Welcome screen:. Select your country. Click Continue. Select a keyboard layout.
Click Continue. At the screen that says, Transfer Information to This Mac, select “Don’t transfer any information now.”. Click Continue.
Put a check in the Enable Location Services on this Mac. Click Continue. Select “Don’t sign in” at the Apple ID window.
Click Continue. Click the Skip button. Agree to the Terms and Conditions. Click the Agree button.
Create a new computer account and click Continue. You Mac will now create a new user account and log you in. Click Continue at Diagnostics & Usage and your settings will be finalized. Once you’re logged in, take a look around. Note that there is and icon for your hard drive in the upper right of your Desktop that has a globe on it. Double-click that icon and you see what looks like a normal disk with an installation of the Mac OS on it. Command-click the title bar of that window and what you’ll see is the path to where that drive is located and you should note that it is called something like NetBoot Client-3c75401e8d7.
Open your Applications folder and locate the apps you added to your disk image in last week’s episode. (For me that was AppCleaner and Malwarebytes Anti-Malware.). Open each of the apps you installed. Open TextEdit, create a document and save it to your Desktop. Play around with other apps, then restart your computer, while holding down the Shift key. When the Startup Manager appears, re-select your NetBoot image. Note that your Mac starts up just like it did the first time, at the setup screen with no user accounts created.
Walk through the setup process a second time and note that the TextEdit document you saved on the Desktop is no longer there. Obviously, a NetBoot image with only a base installation of the operating system isn’t very useful, but if you create a fresh install of the OS and set user accounts up that have Home Folders stored on a network server you guarantee that every time you restart your Mac you’ll have a fresh copy of the OS. (We’ll try this in a future episode.) Start your Mac using a NetRestore image Very important: This will wipe the contents of the hard drive on the computer you perform this on. DO NOT do this unless you can afford to lose the entire contents of the hard drive on that computer. Restart your Mac and hold down the Option key.
Choose your NetRestore image from the Startup Manager. Once the restore completes your Mac will restart to a fresh installation of the OS. Setup the computer following the steps from NetBoot section, above. Once you log in, note that the Macintosh HD volume no longer displays a globe. Double click the disk.
Command-click the title bar. Note that the path goes back to the internal hard drive on your Mac, not the network drive we saw in the previous section. Play around with apps like you did before. Save a text file on your Desktop. Restart your Mac normally and note that it starts as you’d expect it to, with the account you created in the previous steps. Next, we’ll look at some more simplex options for creating NetInstall images.